Miracles in Mexico

It's true, this is the land of miracles. Besides the Virgen of Guadalupe, of course, one can witness miracles in many forms. Some things in Mexico City warrant as miracles, for example the once a week closing of various parts of the city to bikers, and the free renting of bikes to travel the routes.  I took advantage of the downtown bike circuit with friends Paola, Nadia, and Sergio (and puppy Frida) last weekend.  The free bikes are not the best quality, but they are free.  It was a great tour, going all around the Zocalo and behind Bellas Artes to Reforma, up to the Bosque de Chapultepec and back around to the Alameda.  Frida enjoyed it too.  What a great idea for a city to do!

Another miracle is the finding of organic greens being sold 2 blocks from my house, at my yoga studio.  This guy comes once a week and sells arugula, mixed salad greens, mustard greens, bok choi, and chard.  They also deliver! I couldn't believe it.  Some of the finest arugula I've had, too.  I threw a little chilean organic olive oil and lime juice on it and was in heaven.

The third miracle was climbing to the top of the crater of the Nevado de Toluca, which I see outside of my window in Toluca (see pic in entry below).  There are two peaks, and we got to the first one at 15,223 ft! The highest I've ever been. The peaks are on the ridgeline of the volcano overlooking two beautiful lakes (see picture to right). And I did it while guiding a mostly blind student from Mexico City, who was training for a more extreme trek with the non-profit I work for, Global Explorers.  I felt like I was going to die, but it was way worth it.  Thanks to my friend Santiago for inviting me!


The fourth miracle is Day of the Dead, which hasn't happened yet (it's November 2) but I think it's a great idea.  People actually go eat and drink in graveyards with their dead. I've been getting flowers to prepare, marigolds and these other fuzzy red ones.  It's such a bright holiday celebrating our loved ones who are no longer with us.
Viva México!

Mexico, Part 2: Toluca

The time has come for me to start the next phase of research: my surveys.  This means that I will be spending a good deal of time out in the Toluca Metro Area, around an hour or so to the west of Mexico City.  I chose this region because my advisor, Hallie, had worked here and also because I was interested in the interface of rural and urban, which is pretty evident here, and also because it is relatively close to Mexico City.  Most chilangos (from Mex City) make fun of me because driving through, Toluca is pretty ugly, industrial, urban sprawl, townie, not as cool as Mexico City.  But I have to say I have a pretty nice life here.  I am staying (part of the week) in a subdivision next to a fancy private university, the Tecnologico de Monterrey, which has all sorts of resources and beautiful sports fields.  Then across the other way is an enormous park called Parque Alameda 2000, which has horse-back riding trails, lakes, forests, picnic tables equipped with a bbq, and all sorts of biking and hiking trails.  On the other side is an amazing view of the Nevado de Toluca, the volanco that looks down on the city.  And I pay $10/night to stay here! Good deal. There's nice CA weather which means I can sit outside and work, while tanning.  Not too long though, because I'm at 8,750 ft. Pictures show the view of the fields and Nevado from my window, the Parque Alameda 2000, and a view of the Nevado from the Tecnologico Monterrey. 


Close to my house is a little cafe that has lunches at around $3, including soup, rice, main course, and dessert.  I go running in the park, I go to meetings, I am starting my surveys...all I need is a pool and it would be perfect.  The downside is the urban sprawl, and it is hard for me to get anywhere so I'm spending all my research money on taxis.  And I don't have mom and pop stores down the block like I have in Mexico City so that means I shope at ... wait for it... that's right. Walmart.  I shopped at Walmart yesterday for the FIRST TIME IN MY LIFE!  It was like any other place, really. And more expensive than the small stores in my neighborhood.  But if you don't want culture shock, that's the place to go. Although they do have a tortilleria.

I will add pictures in a few days when I get back to DF, but for now I'm enjoying the blue skies and fresh air around here.  Amazing skies.  In the mean time, here are some funny things to think about (mostly about food):

1. They don't sell bread yeast in stores in Mexico. Where to get it, I don't know.  Strange. Where you'd find bread yeast in a supermarket instead are shelves of corn starch. ??
2. White corn in central Mexico looks yellow.  I don't know why it's called white corn, but it is.
3. People prefer to buy US stickered apples, pears, etc.. than national fruit which tastes a hell of a lot better.  Not sure what's up with that, except for thinking that the shiny perfect stickered gringo fruit MUST be better.
4. People below the age of 25 can say my name because they know Amy Winehouse.  Above 25 have trouble.
5. I miss my car a lot.  Something about the suburbs stirs a car obsession in me.
6. It's somewhat hard to find good butter.  Not a big part of people's diet, not like lard or margarine. Consequently, when I bake people think I'm some sort of genius. But butter's the real genius!